![]() ![]() Stabilized coolant temps are increased by 15-25☌, versus straight water with Water Wetter. The engine will continue to run hot until a critical component fails as the boiling point is so high.Įngines can run 45-60☌ hotter (at the cylinder heads) with Waterless products. The Waterless coolants cannot transfer heat as efficiently as water, thus causing an engine to run hotter. Waterless coolant should never be advised in applications where heat issues are apparent, Waterless coolants will only compound this problem as they lack the necessary heat transfer properties to provide a solution.Īlthough the product is a very good corrosion inhibitor, it will not adequately protect an engine when overheating. In addition, the operational downside is the decreased ability to transfer heat compared to water based coolants. It doesn't mention a specific product though. I had a little surf of the net this afternoon and found this in a thread. The water evaporates and the Evans is back to strength. emergency top-up etc.), you simply boil it. The Mini, on the other hand, has no expansion tank, just an overflow pipe - and the level never seems to change, so work that one out!Įdit 2 - the other thing I was told was that if you contaminate it with water (e.g. The Mustang, running zero pressure, has a reasonable size expansion tank that fills and empties as it heats/cools, but that's a big system (BeCool ally rad with a stroked 392). He advised me not to waste my money on the prep fluid!!Įdit - probably worth mentioning that it seems to expand more than conventional coolant mixtures, although again I may be imagining that. Run till the thermostat opens, switch off and drain, fill properly with Evans. as well as I could and half fill with bog standard ethylene glycol coolant neat. I once tried to order the prep fluid from Evans, and their tech guy told me to drain the rad and block etc. I got the impression it's got a bit cheaper recently, may be imagining that, and it's now green so you can see it. All I will say, is that your engine may well run slightly hotter, but won't boil, it finds leaks out quickly (like most coolants), it's slippery (which is why it's frowned upon at race tracks), the inside of my cars' cooling systems still look brand new and, well, I like it. There is loads on t'interweb about it, positives and negatives, so I've given up arguing for it and just leave it to others to decide yes or no. I switched to it principally because of the anti-corrosion properties initially, but I also like it because you never get near the boiling point (so it's still working without steam hotspot pockets at higher temps) and I can run the system on zero pressure, thereby not straining hoses etc. ![]() Pretty sure RSK289 uses it in his classic.Yes, I use it in a '68 fastback, '65 AC 289, '68 Cooper S, '01 Z3 M Coupé, daily driver 330i etc. ![]()
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